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How To Make Garden 'Grow-Bags'

Well, it's that time of year  again.  Time to start planing my veggie garden. This is year three of my 'learning-via-mistakes' experiment and heaven knows, I've made some real doozies  but I've also learned quit a bit too...plus, it's been fun, fascinating and interesting.

Last year I discovered 'grow-bags' at one of those chain hardware stores. Because of my limited physical abilities (back surgeries, spinal fusions) I can not dig a traditional garden nor lift more than 5 Lbs. so if I want to grew veggies, which I do I need to look for a less physically demanding method. Grow Bags look to be the answer but they are pretty darn pricey. A great idea but for me they are cost prohibitive -so- I did what I always do, surf the web looking for ideas on how to get what I need for next to nothing. Not because I'm cheap, to be perfectly frank, I am dirt poor: Here's what I've found:




For a wealth of info & advice visit: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-grow-potatoes-in-a-trash-bag/index.html

How to Grow Potatoes in a Trash Bag

Growing potatoes in a plastic bag is a fun way to get children interested in gardening. And it is an almost foolproof way to grow potatoes.

from http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-grow-potatoes-in-a-trash-bag/index.html

• Time
  Several Months
• Price Range
  $1 - $50
• Difficulty
  Easy

In this Project you will:

• Prepare the Seed Potatoes
• Prepare the Bag
• Plant the Potatoes
• Add More Soil
• Harvest the Potatoes

Step 1: Prepare the Seed Potatoes

About a week before planting, place seed potatoes in a warm spot. When the sprouts that form are about 1/4" to 1/2" long, the potatoes are almost ready to plant. Cut large seed potatoes into chunks about 2" wide. Each piece should have at least two sprouts. After cutting the seed potatoes, let them sit at room temperature for two or three days.

Step 2: Prepare the Bag

Use a pair of scissors to cut several drainage holes in the bottom of a 30-gallon black plastic trash bag. Roll down the sides of the bag and fill about one-third of the way up with potting soil. Place the bag in an area of the garden that receives full sun.

Step 3: Plant the Potatoes

Dust the seed potatoes with agricultural sulfur to protect against fungal diseases. Plant the seed potatoes by burying them, eyes pointed up, about 2" deep in the soil. Water well.

Step 4: Add More Soil

When the potato plants get about 6" to 8" tall, it is time to add more soil and straw to the bag. Add enough soil so that just the top few leaves poke through the dirt. As the potato plants grow, continue to unroll the bag and add more soil. Keep the potatoes well watered but not soggy.

Step 5: Harvest the Potatoes

One clue that the potatoes are almost ready to harvest is that the leaves will yellow and the foliage will die back. At this point stop watering and leave the potatoes alone for two or three weeks so that their skins toughen up. To harvest, slit open the side of the bag to release the potatoes.

Growing Zucchini

This is one of the Groovy sites that has helped me in my Veggie Garden Adventure

http://www.gardenguides.com/plants/info/Vegetables/zucchini.asp

Zucchini

Zucchini is known in Europe as courgettes. This squash family member is best when picked very young. Bushes are quite prolific and the plant is ideal for containers. The shape is elongated and both green and yellow varieties are available. Young zucchini is excellent in salads while older varieties are better cooked.

Conditions

Zucchini is a warm weather crop and will not tolerate frosts. It requires full sun to partial shade and will do well in almost any soil with good drainage. Zucchini is a heavy feeder and the addition of compost and well-rotted manure will greatly improve results. When flowers begin to form, you will want to side-dress with more manure. Keep the garden free of weeds which may harbor disease. Cultivate lightly so as not to disturb the shallow root structures.

Planting

Plant when soil has completely warmed. Plants can be started indoors 4-6 weeks ahead to speed harvest. To sow directly outdoors, place several seeds 1/2 inch deep in a wide, saucer shaped depression. Depressions should be 8 inches deep and excavated soil should form a rim around the depression. Leave 3 feet between these "hills". Thin to 3 plants per hill once the true leaves appear. Remove unwanted seedlings by cutting them off with scissors at ground level.

Watering

Try to keep the water off the leaves and foliage. Insufficient water will cause the fruit to fall off before it matures. Leaves will wilt during very hot weather, but will recover when watered.

Problems

Powdery mildew and mosaic virus are the main problems. Good preventative measures include not handling the vines when they are wet, planting in an area with good ventilation, and keeping the garden clean and free of weeds and debris. Most insects that attack zucchini can be controlled by spraying with a good herbal or natural insecticide. See our recipes for herbal insecticides.

Harvesting

Pick zucchini early and often. Fruit that is 4-6 inches long will have the best flavor, and picking encourages more fruit.

Recipes

• Sweet Red Pepper, Baby Carrots and Baby Zucchini
• Zucchini and Macaroni Salad
• Squash with Mushrooms

Peace On